Sudden High Energy Bills in Spokane, WA

Spokane's housing stock gives us a useful frame here. A significant wave of homes was built in the late 2000s and early 2010s - which means a lot of builder-grade AC units are now 12 to 18 years old and hitting the end of their designed lifespan. These systems weren't installed with longevity in mind. They were installed to pass inspection and keep costs down at closing.

Those units are now degrading in predictable ways. Here are the most common mechanical causes of a sudden efficiency drop:

1. Dirty or Restricted Evaporator Coil The evaporator coil sits inside your air handler and absorbs heat from your home's air. When it gets coated in dust, pet dander, or mold, it can't transfer heat efficiently. The system runs longer to hit the same setpoint - and your bill climbs.

2. Low Refrigerant (Undercharge) Refrigerant is the fluid that carries heat out of your home. It doesn't "get used up" - if your system is low, it has a leak. A system running with low refrigerant has to work significantly harder to move the same amount of heat. Efficiency drops, run times increase, and compressor wear accelerates.

3. Failing or Weak Capacitor The capacitor is a small cylindrical component that gives your compressor and fan motors the electrical kick they need to start and run. A weak capacitor causes motors to draw more current than normal - sometimes 20–30% more. Your system runs, but it's burning extra electricity on every cycle.

4. Condenser Coil Blockage The outdoor unit (condenser) releases the heat your system pulled from inside your home. If the condenser coil is clogged with cottonwood, grass clippings, or debris - common in Spokane's late spring and early summer - heat can't escape efficiently. The system runs hotter and longer.

5. Duct Leakage If your ductwork has gaps or disconnected sections, conditioned air leaks into unconditioned spaces like attics or crawl spaces. Your system produces the cooling - it just never reaches your living area. You pay for it anyway.

6. Thermostat or Control Issues A miscalibrated thermostat can cause the system to run past the point where your home is already at setpoint. It's a less common cause, but it's an easy check during a diagnostic visit.

7. Aging Compressor Efficiency Loss Compressors wear over time. An older compressor may still run - but it takes more electrical energy to move the same amount of refrigerant. This is a gradual efficiency loss that can accelerate when other issues (like low refrigerant or a weak capacitor) add additional strain.

Before you call, there are a few things you can check yourself. These won't diagnose the root cause, but they'll rule out the obvious and give us useful information when we arrive.

• Check your air filter. A clogged filter restricts airflow and forces the system to work harder. If it's gray and dense, replace it. Use a basic 1-inch filter - not a thick "allergen" filter, which can restrict airflow on older systems.
• Look at your outdoor unit. Is it running? Is it clear of debris, grass, or cottonwood buildup on the sides? Gently rinse the coil fins with a garden hose (no pressure washer) if they're visibly clogged.
• Check your vents. Make sure supply and return vents aren't blocked by furniture, rugs, or closed dampers.
• Look at your thermostat settings. Confirm it's set to "cool" and "auto" (not "on," which runs the fan continuously regardless of cooling demand).
• Check for ice. Look at the refrigerant lines running into your indoor unit. If you see frost or ice buildup, turn the system off and call us. A frozen coil is a sign of restricted airflow or low refrigerant - running it further causes compressor damage.

If you see ice on your system, turn it off. Running a frozen system can damage the compressor - the most expensive component to replace. Learn more about water or ice around your unit.